ok, im torn between 2 motors and i have to decide which im gonna get. I dont want to stick with my stock d16 ( what am i gonna do with 1.6 liters?) i want to upgrade to a 2 liter, the B20 in the 1990 prelude and all model CRV's will fit in my civic, Hasport makes mount kits so it will fit perfenctly. same with the Integras' B18. only thing is i really want the 2 liter, cause its a 2 liter and i can get it for less money, but one of my friends who races tells me the b20 is heavier than the b18, and while it will make my car have blazing strait line performance, it'll throw off my handling. What is the acuracy of that statement? i've never heard that before, and i've never heard any complaints about understeer from people who race b20's in their integras and civics.
and as far as i know, the early 90's model prelude was a extremely well balanced car (some models came with 4WS, honda's version of Nissan's Super Hicas All Wheel Steering system, obviously not availible on my little Honda Civic Si Hatch)
VQ
12-10-2004, 09:29 PM
I suggest you upgreade the brakes and suspension before powering it up, but once that is done, go for the 2 litre.
According to this page, a B18B weighs 326lbs, a B20B weighs 318lbs. So the B20 is lighter, apparantly.
I'm not familiar with Honda's naming system, are the B18 and B20 the same basic engine, just with different displacements and maybe a few different parts? (like heads and such) If so, I doubt there would a big enough difference between the two to worry about. The only way that I would see there being a big difference would be if one has a castiron head and/or block and the other doesn't.
How knowledgable is your friend? Is it possible he made the assumption that since a B20 has a larger displacement, it's a heavier engine?
FWIW, I looked around a bit, and it seems that a B series engine is about 50lbs heavier than a D series. That's a small enough difference that moving the battery to the hatch area will keep you from ending up more nose heavy...
TMiller
12-10-2004, 09:51 PM
I'd upgrade before I'd do anything serious with power. I like handling over power just because to much power with a poor handling car can make driving a chore and not fun.
VQ
12-10-2004, 09:59 PM
And the brak system too!! always make it be able to stop before you can make it go.
According to this page, a B18B weighs 326lbs, a B20B weighs 318lbs. So the B20 is lighter, apparantly.
I'm not familiar with Honda's naming system, are the B18 and B20 the same basic engine, just with different displacements and maybe a few different parts? (like heads and such) If so, I doubt there would a big enough difference between the two to worry about. The only way that I would see there being a big difference would be if one has a castiron head and/or block and the other doesn't.
How knowledgable is your friend? Is it possible he made the assumption that since a B20 has a larger displacement, it's a heavier engine?
FWIW, I looked around a bit, and it seems that a B series engine is about 50lbs heavier than a D series. That's a small enough difference that moving the battery to the hatch area will keep you from ending up more nose heavy...
yes, all the b-series motors have the same blocks wih different bores and cylinder heads.
my friend knows his stuff, which is why i was believing what he had said. but i figured i'd run it by you guys since yall are way more expirenced.
as for th 50 lbs of offset, that will be ok w/ the battery in front, cause the 15inch sub and enclosure i have planned for the hatchback will probably weigh that much.
the car is only 1900 lbs, a extra hundred wont hurt it, considering the fact that i'm gonna get carbon fiber parts for it later down the road.
thanks for the info, i belive im gonna stick w/ my first choice, the b20.
VQ
12-13-2004, 05:14 PM
What about your brake system!!! The car is only designed to handle low speeds, you need to upgrade the brake's and suspension first!!!
Justin Martin
12-13-2004, 06:27 PM
What about your brake system!!! The car is only designed to handle low speeds, you need to upgrade the brake's and suspension first!!!
Oh come on, we're talking about less than 150hp stock for a B20. (AFAIK) That won't even come close to testing the handling or braking of an intelligently driven Civic. Yeah, it'll handle better if he does suspension upgrades, and he probably will. As far as braking, i'd be supprised if it needs much of anything in terms of braking upgrades unless he's doing serious track days. From what I remember, Civics have fairly good brakes.
If you think they're only designed to handle low speeds, then I doubt you've driven a Civic. They've got far better braking and handling than the stock muscle cars that i've driven. (including brand new Mustangs and Camaros) I'd be more concerned about Joe Blow in a stock older Camaro than blackice in his Civic with a whopping 140hp. :rolleyes:
chris
12-13-2004, 07:49 PM
Oh come on, we're talking about less than 150hp stock for a B20. (AFAIK) That won't even come close to testing the handling or braking of an intelligently driven Civic. Yeah, it'll handle better if he does suspension upgrades, and he probably will. As far as braking, i'd be supprised if it needs much of anything in terms of braking upgrades unless he's doing serious track days. From what I remember, Civics have fairly good brakes.
If you think they're only designed to handle low speeds, then I doubt you've driven a Civic. They've got far better braking and handling than the stock muscle cars that i've driven. (including brand new Mustangs and Camaros) I'd be more concerned about Joe Blow in a stock older Camaro than blackice in his Civic with a whopping 140hp. :rolleyes:
Yeah, but it's a Honda, and you know what everyone says.. ;) Hondas do have pretty good handling and braking. Not sports-car stuff, but good enough for most situations.
Civics are designed to handle at least 180km/hr, because they will do that, and some will even do around 230km/hr.
VQ
12-13-2004, 11:34 PM
Yeah, I've only driven Holden's and Volkswagons, and the VW's on a more long term basis, and even on our van, the brakes are good, then again, they'd have to be to pull up two tonnes of VW bulk.
blackice111288
12-14-2004, 04:16 AM
im getting coilovers before the motor. i probably wont be able to get the motor anyway untill later this summer when i start my OJT at one of the local dealerships (7-8 bucks a hour baby, wooo hoooo!). Coliovers are only $150 for a set of 4 (http://www.arospeed.com/product_info.php?cPath=23_54&products_id=631) i most likely wont upgrade the stock shocks untill they wear out, because another kid in my Autobody class has an 91 Integra that we just but a Blackwidow Ver 1 body kit on (i think the front bumper looks like crap, the tanabe dual mufflers we put on yester day look nice thru the back bumper) and he is still on his stock rims, he is about to buy some new ones so i offered to buy his stock 15's (better than m 13 inch hubs). they look pretty cool actually, they are silver, like an aluminum finish, 6 spoke, but they say acura on the center cap. i'll have to put a honda sticker over it or something becasue its engraved into the wheel.
as for braking, im doing a All wheel disc brake conversion. i plan on going to one of the many junkyards in town and getting the complete front braking system from the same model as my car and changing out the rear drums with the rotors. that would work, wouldnt it? its cheaper than buying a conversion kit.
VQ
12-14-2004, 05:01 AM
Hehe, I've got plans now for a A1 Golf GLD, because I will be diesel mechanic, and because dad bought rims for his Mk3, we have a set of 4 spare wheels and the A1 to A3 golf's all have the same stud and offset patttern, so I have a set of 14' rims and need to buy new tyres when I get a Golf, cos dad has worn em out, but that happens, I have plans for the stock 33kw and 88nm of torque motor, which involve head work and a taller diff ratio, otherwise the taller wheels will give me more acceleration, getting 750km to a 40 litre tank while being able to make your own fuel is good!
Plus the fact I'l be able to work on my own car with help from dad (he had a 81 passat GLD same motor) means it'll be good.
Attached is the new golf rim, albeit an inch larger and on smaller tyres and a different car, but same otherwise.
The other rim was straight after I finished scrubbing the brake dust off the inside of all 5 of the stock wheels, cos they have gone under the house, one is a spare in dad's car though.
blackice111288
12-14-2004, 01:36 PM
much better than my 13 inch hubs with the missing wheel covers^_^
VQ
12-15-2004, 02:25 AM
Really? the center caps are around here on a image on my comp too.
blackice111288
12-17-2004, 09:00 PM
im to imbarrassed to post my hubs, but i want ot show you the rims i really want, the RS limited Ricochet GM wheels. the car will eventually be painted the same color as the spokes of the rims. as of now its a multi-shade red with fading clearcoat^_^ . i just learned how to do body work, im pretty decent at painting, i might paint it or get one of my more expirenced friends in the Juinior's Auto body class (im a Junior, but im taking Autobody as an elective so im with the sophmores, Automotive Mechanics is my primary-im in there with my class-11th graders)
VQ
12-17-2004, 09:46 PM
I wish had classes like that at school, I have to go to do a tafe course to learn any major skills.
blackice111288
12-18-2004, 02:12 PM
yeah, my highschool is more of a tech focused highschool, its kinda cool, we graduate with certified tech degrees and us going into this AYES automotive program, we get 1.5 years toward our ASE certifiation
www.wfhs.net (http://www.wfhs.net)
VQ
12-19-2004, 12:59 AM
We have phased out tech schools, that's what Tafe for is really now, trades, my Dad went to a tech school though and my school was a tech school and got lots of bits and peices from folded tech schools in the area.
blackice111288
12-21-2004, 09:53 AM
i plan to get my ASE Master Technician certification after graduating high school. I'm debating whether im gonna go strait after high scholl, or wait a year. the reason i would wait a year is because of my OJT that starts this summer. the deal is, if i work at one of the participating dealerships, i'll get my own set of tools, a big $1000 set of Craftsman tools. we start off making 7 or 8 dollars a hour. when we start working, i have to sign a contract saying i'll work there for at least the two years required for the tools. then i have to pay like 250 for the tools. if i quit the job though, the contract is void and i dont get the tools or my cash back. plus, the time i spend interning there, it counts towards my 2 years of ASE basic certification.
the course to be a ASE certified Master tech is two years long also. for every area i get certified in, thats a extra 1 dollar a hour they are reqiured to pay me, and there is about 8 areas to be certified as a master tech, so 8 extra dollars per hour i will start off making.
VQ
12-21-2004, 05:16 PM
So many Abreviations that I can't understand there Colin.
blackice111288
12-21-2004, 08:36 PM
my bad
OJT on the job training (internship)
ASE (Automotive Service Excellence)
VQ
12-21-2004, 10:04 PM
Those don't really mean much, your doing an apprenticship or a traineeship? From a apprenticeship you get a qualification.
blackice111288
12-22-2004, 10:05 AM
Yes they do!!! most places wont even hire you if you dont even at least have your basic ASE certification. ASE is a country wide thing, all mechanics in this country should be certified. on most auto shops, you will see on the sign where it says "ASE certified". i dunno if it has anything to do with the government, but it is a major thing, mainly with the dearler ships. and this country is in short supply of ASE master techs, which is why they get paid so much and why i want to be one.
blackice111288
12-22-2004, 10:10 AM
here is the home page of the web site
http://ase.com/
VQ
12-23-2004, 12:45 AM
Yeah, I dont' know for sure whether you might be doing a thing similar to what they offer here, just it's all differnt names and all.
blackice111288
12-23-2004, 03:12 PM
probably, its all the same game, just different names. is there like a national program that focuses on training mechanics and liscenceing them and such? if so, you got something similar to ASE.
when you start working for CAT full time, what will they have you doing? will you get to work on those huge mining dump trucks? (kind of a dumb question, but i think that million pound vehicles are cool&( )
VQ
12-23-2004, 05:52 PM
It's not certain, I'm doing my engineering course to give me more of a chance, but basically it is an apprentiship, which is how all trades are taught so you are fully qualified. I'd probably start locally then once I am fuilly qualifed and all, go up notrh to the big mining areas and work up there for a couple year, you can earn about $120,000 a year doing that, tand then I'd come back down to melbourne I guess and get a job locally on a decent wage for the rest of my life to support my car habits :p But yeah, I hope to end up woking ont he trucks that are so big one tyre takes up a semi, and all the other machinery that Cat make too.
blackice111288
12-23-2004, 10:19 PM
that sounds fun, best of luck to ya
i had a Car and Driver magazine that did a test on one of CAT's biggest truck at the time, if i find it i'll scan the article and post it. the thing was like 50 or more feet tall, i cant recall exactly, its an old article. im sure i'd be kinda nervous driving it around the mining area, since Silverado's and Suburban's get me a bit jumpy- im not a truck guy.:)
blackice111288
12-23-2004, 10:33 PM
found it in a matter of minutes- the web is a wonderfull thing-sometimes:)
sorry, it wasn't 50 feet tall:
As we approach the two prototype 797s in the yard of Caterpillar's Arizona training facility, their scale seems otherworldly. They stand 23 feet 9 inches tall when the dump bodies are down, and 49 feet 3 inches when they're tilted up, which means they dwarf the 240-ton 793C that used to be Cat's biggest truck. Nose the front end of one up to an NBA backboard, and the rear will stick out eight inches past half-court (that's 47 feet 8 inches). At 30 feet wide, park the left side even with that basket and the right side will be eight feet past the three-point line. But most gym floors aren't reinforced to withstand their 560,000-pound weight when empty, much less the 1,280,000-pound total when burdened with 360 tons of rocks and dirt. And with 12,170 pound-feet of torque available from the 117-liter, V-24, quad-turbo diesel, either 797 could rip Madison Square Garden off its foundation and tow it across Manhattan and into the East River.
you can read the full artcle here: http://www.caranddriver.com/article.asp?section_id=26&article_id=3629&page_number=1 (http://www.kniff.de/cgi-bin/cgiproxy/nph-proxy.cgi/010110A/http/caranddriver.com/article.asp?section_id=26&article_id=3629&page_number=1)
blackice111288
12-23-2004, 10:38 PM
More info- http://www.wcsscience.com/extreme/cat797.html
here is the google search: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=Caterpillar+797&btnG=Google+Search
blackice111288
12-23-2004, 10:40 PM
this might also be of some interest to you: http://www.palmpowerenterprise.com/issues/issue200105/caterpillar001.html
VQ
12-23-2004, 11:44 PM
Wicked thanks! Hmm, I seem to get things off topic don't i? When I did work experiene my favourite memory of working there was in the farm machinery section, with the bobcats and skid steers, the fact I got to drive a skid steer or two and a little escavator made it better as well.
Dad drivess for freight Australia, which was owned by Freight America a while ago till they sold it, anyway, the engines in their largest ones are the G Classes making 3300 hp out of a rebuilt V18 Gm two-stroke that had problems in america, but we got em cheap and they apparnalty fixed the problem, so yeah, we also have one new train: the V Class I think it is, it is for the interstate trips and goes along with two other g's to perth, Dad's not liscesned for standerd gague so thankfully he doesn't do that job.
ANyway, these motors are MASSIVE, they chassis date back tot he 70's too, they are Gm bodies asembled in Australia I'm pretty sure too, to get from one cab end to another, you need to go through the enigne bay, because it doesn't have an outside walkway like others, and it has on half of the inside just for cooling!
blackice111288
12-25-2004, 01:35 PM
wow, thats impressive!! are they diesel motors? just a wild guess because you mentioned they were 2 stoke and diesel gets more mpg, right? i guess they would have to be that big to pull all that weight and keep 60 mph. do you know any exact rating on the train motors? Hmm, I seem to get things off topic don't i?
he he, we got a knack for that^_^
VQ
12-25-2004, 06:33 PM
erm, they pull over 200 tonnes, when there is three together, they are turbocharged and supercharged 2 stroke diesels, and diesels make low down torque, hence why they are always used over petrol motors in haulage.
blackice111288
12-30-2004, 11:01 PM
im assuming thats why most 18 wheelers are diesel
oh, yeah, i finally played under gorund 2 yesterday. is 500 times better than the first! i was drifting in the 240, i got 15,000 for one long drift through an intersection. i would buy it but i have too much more important things to pay for, like parts my car and stuff for my girl. plus i really dont have too much time for video games any more because im spending a whole lot of time trying to get my recording equipment together so i an finally start producing people (for cash, $$$:D ) and get my group and my cd (2 different cd's) off the ground. as soon as i convert some one of the songs to Real player audio, i'll be sure to let you hear a sample.
VQ
12-30-2004, 11:42 PM
Yeah, NFSuG2 is alright, I got a copy of it, it's lag like hell till I get my 9600XT, but meh, it's funny cos the cars compeeting suck so much more then in NFS U.
blackice111288
01-01-2005, 06:14 PM
my dad and i finally went and picked up the civic today. it runs perfectly. it does need a new battery tho, thats why it wouldnt start. we jumped it with the suburban (which is a 5.3 instead of a 5.7 like we thought :blush: ). it took like 7 or 8 tries but we got it started. it performs pretty well, better than i thought it would, so i might just keep the 1.6 . i was originally intent on replacing the motor because i expected there to be some mojor problems. but since it runs fine, i might just build up on it. i think you would be surprised as to how much room there is on the inside. it very comfortable. i was just sitting in the car for like 2 hours after we got home just cause i could and i was proud of myself:) . i called my girl and some of my friends from inside of it to tell them i finally got my car^_^
VQ
01-01-2005, 07:04 PM
Lol, well, hey, you got a car, not my choice of car, but meh, car's a car, and you can always sell it, but I'd just save for a decent car.
chris
01-01-2005, 07:48 PM
wow, thats impressive!! are they diesel motors? just a wild guess because you mentioned they were 2 stoke and diesel gets more mpg, right? i guess they would have to be that big to pull all that weight and keep 60 mph. do you know any exact rating on the train motors?
he he, we got a knack for that^_^
You should see the power ratings for the TGV express trains, and the Eurostar express trains. They are unbelievable.
ICE1 and Eurostar are very powerful, but also very heavy - a factor limiting performance. TGV's speed record of 513.3km/hr was achieved with only the two powered cars connected together, giving it a huge power/weight ratio. Normally they do 300-330km/hr.
In comparison with those, each of the 4 Kuznetsov NK12MK engines from the Tupolev TU-95 aircraft have over 14,500hp. :eek:
blackice111288
01-02-2005, 04:54 PM
thats crazy! how do they stay on the rails at speeds like that? you would think the strain on the rails from the train would damage the rails.
VQ
01-02-2005, 11:15 PM
We are getting a high speed track setup all over victoria, they need to upgrade the signals, upgrade the track, smooth it all up so there are no bumps on the rails, it's a lot fo work, they are building trains to go the speed, which is 150km/h the current fastest pass trains we have are sprinter's which go 130km/h on any broad gauge track, Dad has had a fair few shifts where all he does it move the train a bit and wait while the machine puts in new sleepers. It's quite funny that they need to go to all this effort, including building new trains.
blackice111288
01-03-2005, 02:00 PM
i guess fatser trains mean faster shipping or whatever so i suppose they think they'll make more money off of fast trains that deliver more stuff.&(
oh yeah, i spent all morning cleaning the Civic. its sap all over the car. it wasall over the windows but i got it off with a scraper and wire brush. i used a softer brush while trying to get it off of the paint. some of it did come off, but there is a lot still on there. some of the spots where the sap came off left unsightly marks on the paint. im just going to have to get it repainted soon, thats all there is to it. it runs fine and shifts well, it has very great thottle response, and it handles great. i drove it around my neighbor hood earlier. i drifted it, well ebrake slid it. i scared a old man cause he heard the tires screech and he saw the car going sideways around the turn, i know it wasnt safe to do, but i was doing about 25 and i was curious as to how well the short wheelbase would handle being sideways.
chris
01-03-2005, 04:02 PM
thats crazy! how do they stay on the rails at speeds like that? you would think the strain on the rails from the train would damage the rails.
The tracks are purpose built for these high speed operations. They usually are constructed in the best manner, and with the highest quality materials. Curves are also very gentle, and often banked. Inclines/grades however can sometimes be quite steep (in rail terms). The heavy and long TGV's for instance have so much momentum built up that they have little trouble negotiating the climb.
Safety on these very high speed trains is another thing. We all remember back to the disaster in Germany where the ICE came off the rails, injuring scores of people. That was a worst case scenario.
TGV's have crashed as well, but faired better. They've had numerous 300km/hr derailments, but the design of the TGV keeps it all upright, and doesn't allow carriages to easily overturn.
One crash involved a TGV and a truck stranded on a grade crossing. The train apparently negotiated a blind curve, and couldn't stop soon enough before slamming into the tuck at +/- 140km/hr. The crew was killed IIRC, but everyone else was okay.
So if you must travel by high speed express train, use TGV I guess. :)
Signalling to TGV's is presented to the crew in their cabin, they don't have to rely on track side signals blurring by at 300km/hr. In the emergency, it could take a few kilometres to stop a fully laden TGV moving at 300-320km/hr.
In some respects a TGV inside is like a plane, at least for the crew. IIRC, speeds are shown on easy to read "tape" displays, as on many aircraft.
blackice111288
01-03-2005, 05:54 PM
how do they have such quick braking? on the common trains here in america, it takes them over a mile to fully stop from full speed, like 60mph or close to 100 k/ph or whatever,(they tell us this in driver training courses, as one reason not to stay in a car stalled on a RR crossing), yet it takes one of these trains a few kilometers to stop from 300k/ph which is like 186 mph? what in the world, that just doens't add up. do they have electro magnetic brakes like on some roller coasters, but just more heavy duty?
oh, i need some tips on driving uphill (its my driveway) in reverse. how do i drive backwards while not rolling fowards (if you understand what im trying to say).i have trouble trying to balance between the gas and brake. i keep my left foot on the clutch, but at the base of the hill my right is on the brake, i try to transition between the gas and brake pedal with out rolling foward to not strip reverse by rooling foward then backward with it in gear. i was turning around and i was stuck on this in the middle of the stupid hill. i drove up the hill fowards, but i turned around in the flat grassy area beside my garage and was going to back up to my garage to vaccum out the hatch (which is covered in pine straw for some reason), and was crooked, so i drove allitle way down the hill in first, then i went to go in reverse to get to the garage door, then i kept stalling and slipping so my mom kept telling to forget it and park the car and i was getting frustrated so i did as she told me. i felt stupid cause im pretty good at driving stick, i have just never have had to drive uphill in reverse. i tried the heel-toe method, but it doesnt work because i cant put my left foot on the clutch and the brake, my knee hits the steering column and it's non adjustable.
chris
01-03-2005, 06:18 PM
I wasn't meaning like 2 kilometres, but maybe 4 or more. :eek:
I don't know what sorts of brakes the TGV's use, but I could find out. I do know a lot about the motors they have. One particular characteristic is that the motors are super-cooled.
chris
01-03-2005, 06:31 PM
http://www.trainweb.org/tgvpages/images/maintain/
Look there, you might find some info on the brakes they have. I do understand that TGV's use some pretty high performance brakes. They do have 4 brake discs per axle.
A TGV is apparently required to stop within 3 kilometres from 320km/hr speed.
The TGV Duplex planned for Sydney, Canberra to Melbourne is supposed to travel at 225mph (360km/hr).
VQ
01-03-2005, 07:29 PM
To help your problem Colin: slip the clutch and use a bit more engine, as my dad says, then again I only drive manual diesels and they are hard to stall, unless you brake and forget to pull the clutch in.... So bring the clutch a bit past the Point of friction so you are holding the car up with the clutch, have you done that before? It's not too hard anyway.
When we got the hovercraft it was covered in black stuff, polishing does it, drive it down to your nearest car washa nd use their high pressure sprayer and stuff, when we got the golf, it was covered in bugs as it was on the front above the top of the cabin on a truck, cos we got it from sydney, so dad had to pressure spray that to get all the gunk off it, but the sap you can get with polish, just takes a lot of work, beleive me.
What's the specs on your civic anyway? I'd say about 80ft/lbs of torque, but what about the rest? how much hp does it have and is it carbied or EFi? How much does it weigh and how high off the ground is it?
Justin Martin
01-03-2005, 07:49 PM
i tried the heel-toe method, but it doesnt work because i cant put my left foot on the clutch and the brake, my knee hits the steering column and it's non adjustable.
FWIW, when I heel and toe, I use my right foot to work the brake and accelerator at the same time, and my left foot for the clutch only. Not sure if that's a matter of personal preference, or maybe the pedal positioning. But i'd say if you're trying to work the clutch and brake with your left foot, try it the other way.
One thing that can work in those situations, hold your right foot firmly on the brake, and let out the clutch slowly until you notice the revs drop, then let off the brakes slowly while holding the clutch at that position. If you're rolling at all when you get off the brake, it won't be as fast as it would be otherwise because the clutch is already let out partially. Then when do you get off the brake, give it some gas and finish letting off the clutch like you normally would.
The main thing is, don't panic. Panicking just makes it harder to do precise pedal movements.
blackice111288
01-04-2005, 02:56 PM
FWIW, when I heel and toe, I use my right foot to work the brake and accelerator at the same time, and my left foot for the clutch only i tried that too.:)
the bad thing is this car dont ahve a tach, so the only way i can measure revs is by listening to the motor, and at low engine speed (idle) i can barely hear the motor. one time i stalled and didn't realise it untill i treid to give it some gas and i didn't hear it rev up. it stalls really easy. if you are the slightest off the clutch while the brake is on it wil shut off. if i roll foward a small bit and then start backing up, will i damage my reverse gear?
BTW: its got a brand new clutch and is really stiff.
oh, VQ, i dunno the exact specs. im pretty sure its an Si because its a hatch, and i thought all 88-91 hatches were Si's. i think its a 1.6, which would mean its a D16, i know its SOHC. wierd thing is that its a Canadian import.&( i was looking at the little manufacturer info tag on the side of the door, and it said MFG by Honda of Canada, and it said it was made on 05/90 at the Ontario Canada plant. there is a sticker above it that says "imported by Vince Whibbs Chevrolet", which is a local dealer ship. and its a 4 spd.&( &( i wasn't aware that Honda made civics with 4 spd manuals, as a matter of fact i didnt know they made ANY 4 spd manuals.
so yeah, its probably got around 80 lb/ft of torque.:blush: its not funny:D
blackice111288
01-04-2005, 02:57 PM
thanks for all the advice, guys. And not scolding me for drifting in my neighbor hood.^_^ -^
Justin Martin
01-04-2005, 03:39 PM
if i roll foward a small bit and then start backing up, will i damage my reverse gear?
No, that won't hurt it. According to MSN Carpoint, there were non-Si hatches for those years, but the 1.6l was only available in the Si. Of course, if it's a Canadian import, that could be different...
VQ
01-04-2005, 05:07 PM
That's why I liek diesel's they have a governer and even if you are almost at a full stop, they won't stall!
blackice111288
01-05-2005, 04:00 AM
its a 1.5 DX or whatever the other model is besides Si.=[ i definatly have to buy a new motor know, what am i going to do with 1.5 lters? thats embarassing:blush:
VQ
01-07-2005, 11:49 PM
I'm even gonna have a 1.6 when i get my Golf GLD, albeit it will have 80nm of torque and 33kw of power, but I think i've worked out how to get at least 100nm out of it and still get 750km/40 litre tank, then eventully stick a 1.9 or a 2.0 litre TDi motor in it out of a wrecked mk5 or something, course I need all the elctronics and all, but meh It's worth the 13 second quarters stock!
blackice111288
01-08-2005, 10:46 AM
i think a D16A6 with a ZC head will be the best swap for me right now money wise, unless i can find a wrecked CRV and snatch a b20 from it